Friday, July 13, 2012

Article: Working with Short Exposures (A Tiny Slice of Time)

A Tiny Slice of Time
Exposures that seem impossibly brief can reveal a world we didn’t know existed. In the 1930s, Dr. Harold Edgerton, a professor of electrical engineering at MIT,
pioneered high-speed photography using a repeating electronic flash unit he patented called the stroboscope.

As the inventor of the electronic flash, he popularized its use to freeze objects in motion, and you’ve probably seen his photographs of bullets piercing balloons and drops of milk forming a coronet-shaped splash.

Electronic flash freezes action by virtue of its extremely short duration—as brief as 1/50,000th second or less.
Although the D3100’s built-in flash unit can give you these ultra-quick glimpses of moving subjects, an external flash, such as one of the Nikon speedlights, offers even more versatility.

Of course, the D3100 is fully capable of immobilizing all but the fastest movement using only its shutter speeds, which range all the way up to a respectably quick 1/4,000th second. Indeed, you’ll rarely have need for such a brief shutter speed in ordinary shooting.

If you wanted to use an aperture of f/1.8 at ISO 200 outdoors in bright sunlight, for some reason, a shutter speed of 1/4,000th second would more than do the job.
You’d need a faster shutter speed only if you moved the ISO setting to a higher sensitivity, say, to compensate for a polarizing filter you attached to your lens. Under less than full sunlight, 1/4,000th second is more than fast enough for any conditions you’re likely to encounter.

Most sports action can be frozen at 1/2,000th second or slower, and for many sports a slower shutter speed is actually preferable—for example, to allow the wheels of a racing automobile or motorcycle, or the propeller on a classic aircraft to blur realistically.

If you want to do some exotic action-freezing photography, you can use the Nikon D3100’s faster shutter speeds, or resort to an electronic flash (internal or external), which provides the effect of a high shutter speed because of its short duration.

Of course, you’ll need a lot of light. High shutter speeds cut very fine slices of time and sharply reduce the amount of illumination that reaches your sensor.
To use 1/4,000th second at an aperture of f/6.3, you’d need an ISO setting of 800—even in full daylight.

To use an f/stop smaller than f/6.3 or an ISO setting lower than 1600, you’d need more light than full daylight provides. (That’s why electronic flash units work
so well for high-speed photography when used as the sole illumination; they provide both the effect of a brief shutter speed and the high levels of illumination needed.)
High shutter speeds with electronic flash comes with a penalty: you have to use a shutter speed slower than 1/200th second. Perhaps you want to stop some action in
daylight with a brief shutter speed and use electronic flash only as supplemental illumination to fill in the shadows.

Unfortunately, under most conditions you can’t use flash with your D3100 at any shutter speed faster than 1/200th second. That’s the fastest speed at which the camera’s focal plane shutter is fully open: at shorter speeds, the “slit” (described in more detail in Chapter 8) comes into play, so that the flash will expose only the small portion of the sensor exposed by the slit during its duration.

Working with Short Exposures
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You can have a lot of fun exploring the kinds of pictures you can take using very brief exposure times, whether you decide to take advantage of the action-stopping capabilities of your built-in or external electronic flash or work with the Nikon D3100’s faster shutter speeds.

Here are a few ideas to get you started:
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  • Take revealing images.
    Fast shutter speeds can help you reveal the real subject behind the façade, by freezing constant motion to capture an enlightening moment in time.
    Legendary fashion/portrait photographer Philippe Halsman used leaping photos of famous people, such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Richard Nixon, and Salvador Dali to illuminate their real selves. Halsman said, “When you ask a person to jump, his attention is mostly directed toward the act of jumping and the mask falls so that the real person appears.” Try some high-speed portraits of people you know in motion to see how they appear when concentrating on something other than the portrait.

  • Create unreal images.
    High-speed photography can also produce photographs that show your subjects in ways that are quite unreal. A helicopter in mid-air with its rotors frozen or a motocross cyclist leaping over a ramp, but with all motion stopped so that the rider and machine look as if they were frozen in mid-air, make for an unusual picture.

    When we’re accustomed to seeing subjects in motion, seeing them stopped in time can verge on the surreal.

  • Capture unseen perspectives.
    Some things are never seen in real life, except when viewed in a stop-action photograph. M.I.T’s Dr. Harold Edgerton captured a series of famed balloon burst images back in the 1930s that were only a starting point. Freeze a hummingbird in flight for a view of wings that never seem to stop. Or, capture the splashes as liquid falls into a bowl, as shown in Figure 1. No electronic flash was required for this image (and wouldn’t have illuminated the water in the bowl as evenly).

    Instead, several high-intensity lamps and an ISO setting of 1600 allowed the camera to capture this image at 1/2,000th second.

  • Vanquish camera shakes and gain new angles.
    Here’s an idea that’s so obvious it isn’t always explored to its fullest extent. A high enough shutter speed can free you from the tyranny of a tripod, making it easier to capture new angles, or to shoot quickly while moving around, especially with longer lenses.

    I tend to use a monopod or tripod for almost everything when I’m not using an image-stabilized lens, and I end up missing some shots because of a reluctance to adjust my camera support to get a higher, lower, or different angle. If you have enough light and can use an f/stop wide enough to permit a high shutter speed, you’ll find a new freedom to choose your shots.

    I have a favored 170mm-500mm lens that I use for sports and wildlife photography, almost invariably with a tripod, as I don’t find the “reciprocal of the focal length” rule particularly helpful in most cases.

    I would not handhold this hefty lens at its 500mm setting with a 1/500th second shutter speed under most circumstances. Nor, if you want to account for the crop factor, would I use 1/750th second. However, at 1/2,000th second or faster, it’s entirely possible for a steady hand to use this lens without a tripod or monopod’s extra support, and I’ve found that my whole approach to shooting animals and other elusive subjects changes in high-speed mode. Selective focus allows dramatically isolating my prey wide open at f/6.3, too.




Figure 1: A large amount of artificial illumination and an ISO 1600 sensitivity setting
allowed capturing this shot at 1/2,000th second without use of an electronic flash.


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